Rhino Fan Help Please!

the thermostat also keeps the coolant from going to fast and not cooling !!! It works as a restriction SOOO i think it should be there !!! I guess Yamaha payed a lot of $$ to decide about one !!! Its also easy to sit here and pop off !!! I live in Crossville if you need a hand let me know !!!

I must agree with imbill. the coolant needs down time in the rad to cool down. that is the whole purpose of the thermostat opening and closing.

Thanks guys I agree with y'all 100% on the thermostat.I'm going to replace it.I don't know where the dealer finds there mechanics but I think Yamaha put it there for a reason so I probably need to keep it.guess I'm just gonna take it to a mechanic next week.Bubba I don't know about the transmission but all the hoses are good.I just can't figure it out so bad as I hate to guess I need to take it to someone.

did you think about the rino forum?? http://www.rhinoforums.net/ im sure they would be happy to help ??

Here is a thought for ya the thermostat is closed when first starting up the machine. When temp reaches say 220 in a new car, it opens fully and the coolent flows freely. In some cases its too hot for guys who use a lot of revs for whatever reason! So they put in say: a 170 degree thermostat.( not a good idea with modern computerized engines) Now the engine is a little cooler so they have a bit more room to rev it before it overheats. If the theory that keeping the coolent in there longer is correct, it would seem that the 220 degree thermostat would let it cool longer because it would stay closed longer (having to hit 220 before opening fully) I believe no thermostat in it would let it run cooler since it never had to reach the set degree, 170 for example before allowing flow. Its winter time that the thermostat really plays its part. Cold mornings too. Cold engines are dirtier so the government requires thermostats as part of the air pollution package.
Bottom line: you could run without one all summer, but come winter, you would be at the yamaha dealer wondering why it wouldnt run right
I have to ask: are you sure that was oil and not antifreeze? A stuck thermo would answer both problems if so.

Ya im sure it was oil.i dropped it off at the mechanic today so hopefully it wont be to bad..it blew some white smoke out of the tailpipe when i was loading it up this morning..what would that mean?

White smoke is antifreeze burning. Most likely blew a head gasket when it overheated.

ok they just called me and on the bottom of the motor on the seam where the two halves meet is where my leak is.he said there is no gasket there it is just siliconed and put together.somehow my silicone broke loose..aint no telling..i ride rough sometimes lol.anyway he either has to pull the motor and take it apart then re-silicone it then put it all back together.1500 to do that he said..or he can just push some silicone up in the seam and tighten the bolts back down good for 100..he said this should work cause if oil is coming out he can get silicone in it.he said it wasnt enough of an oil leak to hurt anything even if i rode all day if i left it how it is either.any thoughts on this.im also having him check the fan while it is there but think i got it fixed now.i need advice on what to do with the leak though please.

My opinion... and I take a it for that... I would fix it right,split the case and reseal it... the silicone doesn't stick good to oily surfaces so I would think it would only be a temporary fix by trying to put it in from the outside.....

my first thought is what made the silicone come out is it to much pressure in the crankcase if so what is not lettin it out or is this normal ?? I agree about doin it right BUT that a big price !! If there is a problem with pressure than a reseal nor a quickie will solve the problem !! I would be sure there isnt a pressure issue and go the 100 bucks and if that dont do it then go the other way you could ask if the quickie dont hold would they take the 100 off the 1500 later !!! just my 2 cent !!!!!!!!

He was talking about it being a slow leak, Im thinking it just was a bad seal when put together ???

GOOD MORNIN :O))) its easy to sit here give advice when its not me gittin my hands dirty ;o))))

it is a slow leak and i dont think it was caused by pressure or anything like that.when he had it on the lift there was a big dent on the belly pan skid plate and he seems to think when i hit something it done it.he is suposed to be trying to see if hee can loosen the bottom bolts enough to get the silicone in there and make a good seal.says he has fixed another one like this but he dont gurantee it.so i guess its a gamble.if that dont work im just gonna have to have him split it and reseal it i guess."you have to pay to play"

IMO: If you are going to split the cases just go ahead and drop a big bore stroker kit in and freshen the motor up while you have it apart.