660 rhino build

Hey guys didn't see a 660 section so ill just post up here. So for my rhino it has been through quite a bit of modification as some know and its going through more and more as the months go on.

As it sits it has:
-Silicone 5 piece radiator hose kit
-14" itp ss108 black wheels deeper offset in rear
-26x9x14 front 26x11x14 rear grim reaper tires
-Custom made aluminum roof and windshield
-Sony cd player with Boss marine speakers
-Black cdi box
-Warn 4000lb winch
-Rhino lined bed
-2" lift
-HMF Slip on exhaust
-EPI belt
-Vinyl body wrap with shop logo

As for engine performance we really haven't done anything to it since it only has 755 miles on it and has never given us any issues. But recently I have been feeling the need for more power and speed even though it really doesn't need it being a 660. So I added a HMF slip on sunday, but haven't tested it out since work has been crazy. I also have a stage 2 mudbuster hot cam to go in it sometimes. I'm also considering upgrading the carb to the 45mm and upgrading the fuel pump since I have heard they are bad to go out which mine is still stock from 06. Would like to do a 686 kit, but don't want to tear into something that's not broken yet.
Am planning on doing clutch work real soon with greaseless weights and maybe a machined sheave.

Any rhino performance guys out there that care to chime in and give me pointers or tell me what I should buy in my quest for more power let me know.

if your going greaseless get the overdrive weights instead of the sheave. youll save yourself $100 and get the same results

You had better change jets if you added an exhaust pipe.
If I was you I would try a 11-1 Piston, a Mudbuster cam, port & polish the head, go with 16gr. greaseless sliding OD weights, a UNI air filter.
You can double your horsepower with these mods.

Update:

Have the following on order.

-full k&n intake with cvt filter
-dyno jet jet kit
-high flow fuel pump with hoses
-45mm carb
-dynatek cdi


Want to do the clutch work but will have to save up for it next.

Anyone think I'm on the right path here? Trying to out build the shop rzr

Also what about the dynatek coils? Worth the money or not?

Unless you have a 12.5-1 compression piston, then you don't need the extra hotter spark that comes from the Dyna-Tek coil. Besides, any compression over 11.5 - 1 requires you to run race gas to avoid pre-detonation and "pinging".
Next on your list should be a 11-1 compression piston (JE,C-P,Wiseco) that is nitrate coated. Don't forget a new head stud kit, along with a new gasket set (preferrably Cometic) .
Along with a new camshaft......with new valve springs.

I will do motor work when it blows. For now I am just trying to see just how much power I can squeeze out of the stock 660 motor. Once I find that point it will blow shortly after I'm sure and I will already have all my bolt ins there for the internal build.

Put a new dynatek fs ignition cdi in the rhino tonight and wow what a difference. Ditched the junk procom cdi I had. Before the rhino took forever to start especially on cold days like today, when I swapped it out she fired up without choke first try. Tried to start it this morning and killed the battery cranking on it. Very very pleased with the rhino actually starting now. Don't know how it will perform in the actual performance dept, but its already a million times better than the junky procom. Friends don't let friends buy procom cdi's!

maybe i need to try one of those. mine is always a ***** to start if its sat more than a day or two.
i had a black rhino cdi box but it toasted on me one night and i had to put the stock one back in.
where did you get your dynatek?
im also going to try one of the iridium plugs. ive read on rhinoforums you get quite a noticable difference with that upgrade too.

I actually bought mine from a rhino forums member. He said it was used, but the way it came packaged and as clean as it was I don't see how it was used. But I highly recommend the dynatek cdi and get a dynojet jet kit as well. Did the 165 main and other internal swaps done with the kit and it helped the rhino out a lot. I also installed my k&n intake to complement the hmf slip on. The rhino has some major ball upgrade now and it will get up and move not hesitate like before. Worth every penny imo. Fyi I paid 75 bucks for the cdi, 125 for full intake, 60 for exhaust, and 45 for jet kit. Smoking deals to say the least.

I have run ngk iridium plugs in mine every since new. Can't tell you if I notice a difference since its always had these plugs in it since new. I haven't had any issues with them so that's a positive for sure even if they are 3-4 bucks a piece.

Still waiting on my carb and pump, but decided to go ahead and rebuild and re jet the stock carb friday. With the new dynatek cdi, 165 main jet, needle on 2, a/f 2 turns out, full k&n with air box delete, new fuel filter, and new spark plug i have to say the rhino is running very strong. It ran good stock, but stock is well stock and we cant have that. Right now the rhino will flat out get it! Crazy off the line power with a descent top end. Im not worried about running 100mph, im more worried with having the low end power and torque for hiking up the rocks. Played around a little with it yesterday, gonna really push it today. Hopefully i dont break it too bad

rhino_lined_rhino wrote:

Still waiting on my carb and pump, but decided to go ahead and rebuild and re jet the stock carb friday. With the new dynatek cdi, 165 main jet, needle on 2, a/f 2 turns out, full k&n with air box delete, new fuel filter, and new spark plug i have to say the rhino is running very strong. It ran good stock, but stock is well stock and we cant have that. Right now the rhino will flat out get it! Crazy off the line power with a descent top end. Im not worried about running 100mph, im more worried with having the low end power and torque for hiking up the rocks. Played around a little with it yesterday, gonna really push it today. Hopefully i dont break it too bad

Awesome! Have fun bro!

Well we broke it lol. Luckily we got it off the trail with no further damage and back to the shop. Its fixed now, but not cool either way. I'm getting real good at disassembling the rhino for sure. This is the third time I have had the same issue as today, there won't be a fourth.

rhino_lined_rhino wrote:

Well we broke it lol. Luckily we got it off the trail with no further damage and back to the shop. Its fixed now, but not cool either way. I'm getting real good at disassembling the rhino for sure. This is the third time I have had the same issue as today, there won't be a fourth.

What did you break?

Almost killed the motor. There is a nut on the back of the motor where the driveshaft goes into. Its right inside the coupler and if it loosens up you will be flooding oil out. Well like I said this isn't the first time its happened I usually tear it all apart (have to pull bed, exhaust, skid plate, and slide rear diff back to remove drive shaft) and re tighten the nut and ride it a few more times. Well this time I put a lock washer behind the nut and loctited the threads. It may never come off again, but atleast it shouldn't back out of the motor again. Stopped after about 2 hours of riding to check all the fluids out and the oil wasn't touching the dip stick. With no oil on the rhino to refill it we had to ride back out and hope no motor damage occurred. This time we got lucky. There will be a quart of oil under the seat from now on. If the nut backs out then something is wrong with the lock washer and loctite.

rhino_lined_rhino wrote:

Almost killed the motor. There is a nut on the back of the motor where the driveshaft goes into. Its right inside the coupler and if it loosens up you will be flooding oil out. Well like I said this isn't the first time its happened I usually tear it all apart (have to pull bed, exhaust, skid plate, and slide rear diff back to remove drive shaft) and re tighten the nut and ride it a few more times. Well this time I put a lock washer behind the nut and loctited the threads. It may never come off again, but atleast it shouldn't back out of the motor again. Stopped after about 2 hours of riding to check all the fluids out and the oil wasn't touching the dip stick. With no oil on the rhino to refill it we had to ride back out and hope no motor damage occurred. This time we got lucky. There will be a quart of oil under the seat from now on. If the nut backs out then something is wrong with the lock washer and loctite.

You know that sucks but I bet it made for a memorable ride!

I would think the loc-tite would take care of it. I use loc-tite on every nut and bolt I put on this thing...

Mud-and-Guts wrote:

You know that sucks but I bet it made for a memorable ride!

I would think the loc-tite would take care of it. I use loc-tite on every nut and bolt I put on this thing...

So far its holding together. Maybe the loctite did the trick I hope.

Swapped the HMF slip on for a set of Two Brothers Racing headpipe back duals. Definitely a nice deep throaty sound. Dont know if it changed my power any, im sure it has, but havent actually rode it yet if you can believe that. Gonna change my oil and spark plug so im ready to go next weekend.

So as it sits my mod list is pretty big:
Motor work:
-Stock interals
-K&N Full intake with air box delete and pre filter
-Mikuni HSR 45 carb with throttle cable
-Mikuni High flow fuel pump
-UTV INC Clear fuel line kit
-Two Brothers full dual exhaust
-Unleashed utv machined sheave
-Stock 450 greased weights (11.4 g dry vs 15.6 g stock 660)
-Stock secondary spring
-Dynojet jet kit (165 main jet, needle on 2, af 2 turns out)
-Dynatek FS Ignition cdi box
-Full silicone radiator hose replacement kit
-epi hd severe duty belt

Chassis:
-Full skids (minus one rear a arm skid lol)
-Stock non resi suspension
-Custom making front and rear diff braces and gussets
-14" ITP SS108 flat black wheels narrow front wide rear
-26x9 front 26x11 rear gbc grim reaper tires
-Moose racing rotors all around w/ ebc pads
-Warn winch 4k
-Custom made aluminum roof for stock cage (working on making a full new cage)
-Vinyl body wrap with shop logo (hid the old army green plastics with new blue vinyl wrap)
Interior:
-UTV INC polished billet seat latches
-Crow 4 poing harness
-Yamaha harness bar
-Sony cd player and ipod adapter
-2 Boss Audio marine speakers mounted on harness bar
-Yamaha digital dash

Thats all i can think of off the top of my head lol.

Its an addiction bro the list will just keep growing!

Mud-and-Guts wrote:

Its an addiction bro the list will just keep growing!

I have a few more things I'm wanting to add to the list, but for now this will do. Got to pay off some bills and. Get christmas out of the way and I will continue on.

rhino_lined_rhino wrote:

Mud-and-Guts wrote:

Its an addiction bro the list will just keep growing!

I have a few more things I'm wanting to add to the list, but for now this will do. Got to pay off some bills and. Get christmas out of the way and I will continue on.

I know what you mean my friend! I haven't done much to mine over the last several months but now it is time to change it up with the new wheels and tires..

Mud-and-Guts wrote:

I know what you mean my friend! I haven't done much to mine over the last several months but now it is time to change it up with the new wheels and tires..

What wheel and tire set up are you after now? I have considered selling my wheels and doing a beadlock set up, but really like how my rhino looks right now. I love the tires and will keep them for sure unless I sold the whole set as a set. Next go around will be all standard off set 14" beadlocks with 26x9s all around and a +3.5 fabtech mid travel kit with fox shocks or f18s. I can get it pretty reasonable through work since we are fabtech dealers. Same for the long travel kits, but I don't want that look or width for the trails.

rhino_lined_rhino wrote:

Mud-and-Guts wrote:

I know what you mean my friend! I haven't done much to mine over the last several months but now it is time to change it up with the new wheels and tires..

What wheel and tire set up are you after now? I have considered selling my wheels and doing a beadlock set up, but really like how my rhino looks right now. I love the tires and will keep them for sure unless I sold the whole set as a set. Next go around will be all standard off set 14" beadlocks with 26x9s all around and a +3.5 fabtech mid travel kit with fox shocks or f18s. I can get it pretty reasonable through work since we are fabtech dealers. Same for the long travel kits, but I don't want that look or width for the trails.

I got my new DWT Sector Beadlock wheels in yesterday and hope to see the tires one day this week...

I would also like to have a mid-travel kit but it may be a while.

Mud-and-Guts wrote:

I got my new DWT Sector Beadlock wheels in yesterday and hope to see the tires one day this week...

I would also like to have a mid-travel kit but it may be a while.

Cool. You gonna have them on for the weekend ride?

rhino_lined_rhino wrote:

Mud-and-Guts wrote:

I got my new DWT Sector Beadlock wheels in yesterday and hope to see the tires one day this week...

I would also like to have a mid-travel kit but it may be a while.

Cool. You gonna have them on for the weekend ride?

I am hoping, I am expecting the tires Tuesday or Wednesday.. If they come in they will be on... lol Can't wait to try them out..

Pls no one email me just pm me.
Hi I am about to build my own yamaha rhino as it is my first rhino build I have a couple questions first does anyone have so frame desgins I found a couple but havent loved them that much and also would it be worth it to build my own or should I buy one from yamaha